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Oaxaca
is distinguished in the Mexican Republic for the
preserve of many preHispanic traditions.
Celebrations, rites, dances, but mainly the art,
makes our roots get reflected on this invaded
contemporary culture. In this beautiful state
six thousand mixed race and indigenous towns and
sixteen ethnic groups exist, accommodating more
than five hundred thousand craftsmen, supported
in their artistic talent and imagination, respecting
the traditional means and techniques.
The pottery has become for a long time one of
the activities of greater importance, fulfilling
a double aim: to make daily useful or simply decorative
objects. In this second it is emphasized the world-wide
famous and valued Black Mud. |
Originary of the community San Bartolo Coyotepec,
located 8 kilometers far from the city of Oaxaca,
passing by the airport, the black mud is distinguished
by its metalized black finished. The creation
of this is attributed to Doña Rosa Real
de Nieto, who accidentally discovered that ceramics
could be polished with quartz stones, giving
like result a shine and smooth texture. By this,
Doña Rosa earned the recognition of mexican
and foreign artists and collectors, making her
factory the most important of Coyotepec. She
dies in 1980, leaving to her children the mysterious
secret of the manufacture, mystery they say,
will continue passing from generation to generation
without revealing it to any stranger to avoid
that other communities apply it and with this
create some class of competition.
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The Doña Rosa Pottery
Store stills open to the public for manufacture,
exhibition and sale of black mud, from 8:30 a.m.
until the 7 p.m., in the street of Benito Juárez
24in San Bartolo Coyotepec, at only twenty minutes
of the city of Oaxaca taking the highway to Puerto
Escondido. Nowdays Valente Nieto Real, son of
the great potter and in charge of the business,
tells that her mother was one lady of indigenous
origin that was born in 1900 and which, thanks
to her talent, won the simpathy of some presidents
of the Nation. In the factory they continue molding
the pieces on the traditional winch without wheel,
method of pre-Hispanic inheritance that consists
of two concave mud plates, one downwards supporting
the other. |
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The making process lasts over
20 to 30 days, going from the molding to the decoration,
and then to the slow drying in closed rooms. Earthenware
vessels, vases and large pitchers carved with
ruins of Monte Albán, virgin figures, saints
and diverse sculptures are the main production,
although the elaboration of special pieces to
store mezcal: the typical drinki of the State
of Oaxaca. There are also made ash trays, whistles
and figures of very accessible price and, mainly,
of very good quality and finished.
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A
great exhibit of the black mud is exposed in State
Museum of Popular Art of Oaxaca, same that has
taked the task of rescue the local art and dignify
it in a noble place, beautiful and sober, with
a minimalist museography to emphazise the great
beauty and shine of this singular material, same
that has an entire hall of permanent exhibition.
The
cost of the entrance to the museum is of 20 pesos
and if the visitor counts with a student or teacher
credencial the access is for free. To know the
State Museum of Popular Art of Oaxaca is to penetrate
in a magical world of the most intimate creation
of our identity. While walking around its beautiful
halls we understand why Oaxaca is the spiritual
reserve of México. Buying black mud, visiting
the factorys and the Museum of Coyotepec, we contribute
to the conservation of our culture. If you go
to Oaxaca, don’t forget it! |
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